Monday, October 22, 2007

The Mad Flight

We jogged along the Tiber.

Zig-zagged around the broken shards of glass and water bottles.

Did you know that Italy was the country which most consumes water bottles? Con gassata, usually. I forgot that Europeans did that. We stopped buying Perrier when a lady at Costco warned my mother of its unhealthy effects. You mean, besides flatulence?

Serve the Servants by Nirvana woke me up every morning I lay on the small left pocket between the edge of the bed and the contour of your body. What an unusual song to choose on the radio alarm clock, I’ve always thought but never questionned; admitedly, I found it kind of cute.

And that’s the angry, teenage angsty music I’m listening to on my Business class seat because Ocean’s Thirteen is experiencing technical difficulties and I’m feeling grungy.

How could I have missed my plane?

I’ve traveled so much. I stood in line, half-asleep, juggling a postcard on my arm and dragging the strap of my red duffel bag around my ankles. Backtrack. I was frantically looking for my passport last night, thinking I had forgotten it at Florence. Packed and unpacked my souvenirs and clothes on the rustic floor tiles. We eventually found the passport and headed off for a jog, as if it were the natural reward to an averted tragedy. What other things could I have done on this final night? Plans of wine on the Spanish Steps proceeded by indulgences on pasta, pizza, and gelato. We have arrived as students and shall return as pigs.

Also on my to-do list was to ride in a scooter (check), toss two coins in the Trevi (one for my father), and take a dip in the champagne glass fountain (left unchecked, deterred by its questionable legality). Magnificent art and sculptures enclosed in museums or burried in churches would have to remain on the idyllic canopy of my memories. On the last night, best avert Stendhal’s syndrome and remain awake. Impulse tends to find its own way towards a scheduled plan, and so I followed the light breeze beneath my feet that carried me all the way to Testaccio and over to Trastevere. We sprinted at times, raising our arms forward and exclaiming how good Rome felt that night. I think they call it the runner’s high.

Delta 77? I asked earlier, you said 10am… No, that one is the 71.

My face must have gone very pale because the boy behind me audibly commented: “that sucks,” organizing my muddled thoughts into a compact statement of fact. But the fine was much, much smaller than I had anticipated and the next plane left in two hours, which gave me just enough time to do some last minute shopping I needed to do at my indecisive, leisurely pace. I guess I was feeling kind of happy, or maybe I’m attributing the emotion with the lack of a sudden, depressive shift in mood. I floated along in a sleepless state, letting unexpected adventures occupy the part of the brain that gives you the ability to reflect and make sense of the past few hours or weeks. Temporarily grounded myself to take the escalator up to the gate as an unusually shiny Tazza D’Oro gradually emerged in my sight. I could have cried with joy right then, as I warmed my hands around a cup of sweet capuccino and looked outside the window at all the parked airplanes and the one that flew away.

“Tell me about Rome,” they’ll ask. Oh, Jesus. I need to start gathering my thoughts and notes because I don’t know how to sum up the past five weeks in a few engaging sentences which goes beyond the person’s already existing conceptions of the European city. They’ll hear it’s beautiful and know that is the case; they’ll expect us to come back with a refined sense of the aesthetic or an expanded taste palette, or merely find us fattened with pasta and Nutella. They might not know about the market that sells fresh, misshapen fruits, or the latteria which sells its tasty yogurt in little glass bottles. I could not reproduce the mirror image of the city over the river at night and the coincidence of the white arrows on the pavement which always seemed to point to the direction we were running. I wouldn’t be sure how to put into words the awkward feeling of stepping over the crumbling leaves or the cool sensation of the first crisp morning in Rome which announced the end of summer and foresaw our approaching departure. The differences between living and visiting a place becoming clear to me in the realization of these timely details.

I wanted to feel Rome. I did not want my last night to be spent sitting at a restaurant in a large group, passing the bread around and waiting for our plates to arrive. We’d have our last gelatos and our besotted farewell to the city but before that, I wanted to be liberated from the expectations and eschewed priorities of work that we had accumulated over the last days, brought upon by our own procrastinatory fault. With little sleep and an empty stomach, we dashed over the sidewalk, under the bridge, over and across, under again with a brief pause to listen to the band that was playing below. We recognized the papal coat of arms and correctly identified the bridge in the dark as Ponte Sisto when we thought we had gotten lost. Our art history teacher would be proud.

I waited so long at the queue and I just missed my flight. Can you at least let me skip ahead?

In my best Italian and batting my eyelashes. (And that’s how I got a Business class seat at no additional cost.)

G is for Gumshoe, H is for Homicide, I is for Innocence. The people in this

airplane like to read Sue Grafton novels. I don't.

I got asked if I understood English when I picked the Financial Times

over USA Today when the flight attendant offered.

I hope I don’t fall asleep too soon.

In a few minutes, the hills and tall trees of Rome will appear like

miniature from above.

We take off.

Scene at the marketplace

“People live there,” she says as she points to the Theater Marcello on our way back home. They have built homes and raised families among ruins. I imagine the little place, accessible only by a staircase out in the open air, overlooking the road leading to the Campo de Fiori and the Winged Victories on top of the Vittorio Emanuale monument. In the distance, I picture the glow of the hidden TV playing in the corner and the milk bottles already delivered at the doorstep, and the little girl who perks up from her favorite morning cartoon shows to pick up the milk and give thanks to the man who delivered them. Morning cartoon shows. Is that an American concept? Do they even deliver milk anymore? The point of my fantasy is the concept of a city where seller and buyer want to know each other; they are recurring characters in the lives of people. They await their next lines and spark dialogues which fire up into new stories. And occasionally, they’ll have a sip of the milk they receive fresh in the mornings.

Despite my romantic version of the mysterious delivery and exchange of foods, I can confidently ascertain the freshness of the ingredients one gets at the market at the Campo de Fiori. Plump, misshapen varieties of fruits you know are made in Italy, without the certifying sticker on the inside of your leather purse (and even then, you wonder: “Really? You’ll go from a hundred euros to twenty for me?”).

I am most guided by their ripe smells which also
invite the small but bothersome flies that habitually get swatted away. I did mention food was fresh, which I have come to learn means embracing the small patches of browning pigment which make for juicier pears and trusting in the knowledgeable flies to guide you to the melon that is ready to be sliced open. Closer to nature, like the unshaven underarms of my Italian teacher that expose themselves when she passionately gestures with her arms and fingers the verb mangiare. To eat.

I wanted to be prepared for the time I ventured away from the grocery store and bravely ask, in metric measurements, for a mezzo kilo of pears. I, who had never even bought meat by the pound and yet only understood weather in degrees Celsius. So when I arrived at the crowded marketplace at the Campo de Fiori, I was eager to simply listen to the interactions taking place and learn from them. In the crowd, it is easy to pick out the long-term customers from the newbie who stumbles upon the market. Does it become systematic, this exchange of food for cash? Surely, a daily ritual for those who come readily equipped with larger purses; but I wonder if the businessmen who get off their scooters do so with the intention of grabbing a fresh snack or speaking a few words to the vendor. One must inevitably lead to the other. There are no express check-outs, no way to anonymously get the food which is handed to you in a brown paper bag by farmers or planters. The market is a place you can sincerely say thank you. Thank you for the food that you helped grow with your hands, thank you for the food I am about to spread on my bread and sprinkle with cheese. Not: thank you for scanning my cellophane-wrapped food over a machine and getting angry when I don’t have change.

I wander over to a stand which draws me with its bright figs, peaches and pears. I point to the pinkish pears and ask for three. Did you grow these? How lovely. So far, so good; I didn’t even have to order by the kilo. She asks me if I want the green kind as well and is amused by my astonished expression. You can do that? I bitterly remember being scolded for my naïveté when I put golden apples and fuji apples in the same bag at a grocery store in Georgia. “You cannot put different kinds in the same bag,” my mother had said. “They are different.”

I only have a fifty Euro bill and apologize profusely before handing it to her. She smiles. Thank you.

Italian Phrases

Categories: People, Philosophy
Phrase: "Amore, rispettere, vivere." --Carlos Romano
Translation:
"Love, respect, live."

An old man (86 years old, according to the ID card he would show us time and time again) helped us figure out where to take the bus and proceeded to tell us his life story. Joel and I were supremely excited about using our Spanitalian skills but ended up nodding and smiling throughout most of his monologue in a moderate state of incomprehension. Did his wife die? Was he happy with his life? We're not too sure, but he left us with words of wisdom to pass along: amore, rispettere, vivere. These are the e
ssentials in life.
I'm not even sure rispettere is gramatically correct, but that's what I scribbled down in my journal. (It rhymes.) I'm not positive about vivere either, because to say that living is conditional to life is, well, repetitive. I tried to tell him mangiare was essential to life, too, but he replied that there was no point in it if we couldn't share it with the ones we loved. Thoughts?


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Ugly Pretty Words

Category: Mood, music
Phrase: "Abastanza bene"
Does not mean: "super duper good"
Actually means: Well enough. Good.
Our roommate would walk around the apartment energetically exclaiming this phrase. It was her word; she believed it was a happy response to "how are you?" and it would put a smile to our faces everytime we heard it.
However, the next week in Italian class, we learned that it actually meant the much more tepid and unenthusiastic "good." Let's not make that mistake. Just because a word sounds happy, it does not mean it perpetrates that emotion. The word "diarrhea" was voted the prettiest sounding word in the English language a while back. You get the idea.

Thursday, October 11, 2007